How to Grow Grapes
February 28th, 2009
It is extremely difficult to be dictatorial about pruning for I had seen large numbers of vastly differing methods practised-and most of them with success!
Therefore, with the ordinary outdoor varieties, all one has to do is to make sure that the soil doesn’t lack in moisture and humus, and once again we gladly accept the straw mulching system as advised for blackcurrants and gooseberries. Clean straw, free from such weeds as clocks and thistles, is put down all over the ground where the vines are growing, to the depth of about 8 inches when trodden down.
The object now is to let this cane produce young laterals on which the fruit will be borne. These laterals will be tied to the wires provided and will be pruned in the summer once a month or so to keep them under control. This is usually known as stopping.
Meanwhile a strong growth will be developing froth the base of the vine rod that was cut back hard in January. This should be allowed to grow upright and should be tied to the stake or wires. Any side growths that develop will be pruned back to one leaf, and if any flower trusses are seen, these will be pinched up.
In all cases it is most important to spread the roots out evenly and only to plant them about 4 inches below the surface of the soil. The earth must he trodden in firmly-this is important and it does mean, therefore, that one can only plant when the soil is not too sticky. After the planting, when the soil is raked down level, the bone meal is applied.
Some people allow two canes to develop each year: they cut one back hard and they train the other one round. This does ensure a stronger growth and the original bearing rod can then be cut right the way back, so as to prevent it growing again.
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